German producers have sparked a dispute by filing an opposition to a Turkish application to grant the döner kebab’s special status at the EU level, initiating a six-month period to resolve disagreements.
A Turkish application to the European Commission for the döner kebab to be given similar EU recognition as the Neapolitan pizza and Spain’s jamon serrano has been opposed by Germany, sources close to the issue have told Euronews.
As reported, in April Türkiye filed an application to register the name döner in Europe so that it can be used only by those producers conforming to the registered production method and product specifications.
A consultation phase for EU member states to challenge the registration on grounds such as intellectual property concerns, concluded yesterday (25 July) and a Commission spokesperson confirmed to Euronews that opposition to the application had been received, though the EU executive declined to confirm which country resisted the application.
Two sources close to the issue told Euronews that the Bonn-based German Federal Ministry of Food and Agriculture filed an opposition to the Turkish application, however.
The sources said that the German ministry made its case following feedback and positions submitted by several associations of German producers, adding that resistance to the Turkish application reflected the stance of German producers rather than the German government.
The next stage of the procedure will see the Commission assess the admissibility of the opposition and then facilitate discussions between the applicant and the opponent, allowing up to six months for the pair to reach an agreement, which, if achieved, must be reported back to the Commission within one month.
Whether an agreement is reached or not, the final decision on registration will rest with the Commission, according to a spokesperson.
Türkiye seeks a ‘traditional speciality’ protection label, similar to those granted to Neapolitan pizza and Spanish jamon serrano. While sometimes linked to the EU’s protected designation of origin (PDO) scheme, traditional specialities are not part of the geographical indications (GIs) framework, which offers the highest level of intellectual protection for food in Europe.
Still, the goal of Türkiye’s request is to register the name döner in Europe, ensuring its use is restricted to producers adhering to the registered methods and specifications. If successful, only beef and lamb slices “horizontally sliced into cutlets 3-5 mm thick” could be labelled as yaprak (or sliced) döner, while chicken cutlets must be 1-2 cm thick.
These technical details specified in the application are the likely cause of friction between German and Turkish producers over how Germany’s most popular street food is made.
The term döner comes from the verb ‘dönmek’ (‘turning’ in English) but most Europeans know it simply as döner kebab – with the addition of the name used in the Arabic word for all kinds of meat cooked in front of a fire.
